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OK guys, since I need to shell out some big bucks for a slip here in MDR am trying to save a few bucks by attemtpting to paint the bottom of the Patron myself. I have an ample amount of cribbing and a couple 12 ton bottle jacks. Looking for direction or ideas. Can I lift the Billfisher from the stern corners?
How do you guys do it? I picked up (2) gallons of Proline paint from my dive service who tells me it can't be done adequately while on the trailer.
Thanks
Mike
Charlie did a nice write up on this subject a few years back. Take a look at the Following sea site http://www.followingsea.net and you will see the members section in the orange bar near the top of the page. Click on that and put in your user name and password and you're there. If you can't log into it let me know and I'll hook you up with a password.
Mike
Don't drop her! That's my baby, or was my baby. Sombody please post a fishing report. Weather actually looks like I may get to head south next week. Colonet here I come!!!!
It's very easy, takes about a week to do. The hardest part is jacking up the boat. Once you get the rear up off the trailer 4-5 ", it's easy to get a 6" weenie roller to do the job. Believe it or not I get 2 coats out of each gallon. The higher you can get the rear end off the trailer (6-8"), the farther up your will be able to paint forward which leaves less to paint when you lower the stern back down and then raise the bow. Just remember Hijole's tip about blocking up the rear edge of the trailer before you start raising the bow, otherwise you'll be pumping up the jack and the bow won't raise up off the trailer. I have a set of 3 jackstands for the job, Russ Hughes has them currently at his yard in Riverside. If you want you can use them when he's done, just PM him. Be sure to give yourself plenty off drying time and when you re-launch the boat be sure to get it as deep as possible to reduce the friction off the bunks.
Mike It will not accept my password for the members section.Quote:
Originally Posted by NoSlack
sent ya a PM with the info you need to get on the site.
Mike
Mike I did mine last year. I Used Jeff’s jacks and a bottle jack in the front. less fuel the better. The bitch was sanding. The paint has a huge metal content and kills if you get it in your eyes. I was in hazmat suit mask and eye protection and the shit was still all over me. I would be more than happy to help and if you don’t have space we can take it to my shop.
P.S. make sure you do it on a cool day once the air hits the paint it thickens up bad
Quote:
Originally Posted by Honeygirl
Thanks Joe:
I am going to pull the boat this weekend. I plan on taking my time with both the outdrive and the bottom. My dive service recommended Proline 1088 for the bottom and Sealife for the outdrive. Anyone had any lucky with an outdrive paint?
Mike and others,
How did your bottom paint project go? I just finished welding up 4 jack stands and have the boat about 8" off the trailer. I used a pressure washer to knock off some of the old paint and sea critters. The sanding is complete and I am very glad. It was not fun. I plan to put on a coat of ProLine two part epoxy primer and then bottom paint. I am going to try one coat of the harder ProLine, I believe 1088 and then a coat or two of the softer, more ablative paint. I picked up some that was a cancellation by the navy. I am hoping that the paint job requires less prep time next year.
I was going to put a barrier coating on the outdrive and try the copper based paint. The guy at Proline says that this is the way to go. However, I think I am going to chicken out and just put on the paint made for aluminum. Maybe next year if I learn more and can ensure that my outdrive does not become swiss cheese. Regards from another bottom painting fool. Bill
Bill
My dive service recommended Proline 1088. I purchased two gallons of black from him @ $150.00 per. My barrier coat seemed like it was fine. I had (3) 25 ton bottle jacks and a ton of 8x8 cribbing. I two lifted the boat about 8" off the trailer. The sanding was definitely a pain is the rear. I was able to get two coats of paint from a gallon. I plan on applying two additional coats after letting it dry for a couple days. On the outdrive I really took my time and sanded with 80 grit paper. I purchased a gallon of two part epoxy also recommended by my dive service from E-paint #1000. I am able two spray it with a HVLP primer gun. I will top it off with additional coats of Trilux 33. My dive service recommended a product from SeaLife, but I did not like the fact it could not be sprayed, so I stuck with the Trilux. I media blasted the props to bare metal. I think I might try POR 15 on the props topped with a couple coats of Trilux.
Mike
Finished the first coat of epoxy primer. I sprayed using a HVLP gun with a bag in the cup. It worked well except when the bag zip loc was not tight. I was able to spray with the gun upside down and at various angles. No spillage and the paint flowed fully. Tomorrow will be another primer and then one coat of 1088 black. I am going to follow with two coats of 1083 red. The 1083 is used by the Navy. It is a bit softer than the 1088 and is supposed to "sluff off" I got a good deal on it so it is worth a try. There is a possibility that it might sluff off too fast with a faster boat. But we will see.
Incidentially, Volvo offers a fixture to assist getting the outdrive on and off. It uses the 30 mm pins inserted part way into the housing. I am planning to make a fixture. It should be done in a week or so. If Mike or anyone wants to borrow it let me know.
Mike, I am doing the same as you on the outdrive. I am going to spray a zinc Strontium primer, followed by a epoxy barrier coat and Trilux 33. It will be interesting to see how well this works.