Yanking Engine and Pan Gasket?

Well, after two years of working on her I finally took the "new boat" out for a test run.
I had a list of 70 items to repair, modify and or complete. I now have an additional six or seven, one of which is to fix what appears to be a leaking pan gasket. AD41B.
So I have two or three questions that I was hoping to get a little help with.
1. How do you pull the engine?
a. Do you unbolt the mounts from the block or do you take off the nuts from the mounts and lift?
b. All of the hoses, wires, etc are relatively easy to figure out but what is holding the engine to the transom shield?
c. When you have it all loose does it just pull forward and then up? What needs to be aligned when you are putting it back?

2. The pan gasket from Volvo is $105.00! Is this the only source or was there a Chevy gasket that fits the same pan?
3. Finally, any tips on what else to look for and or plan on replacing once I have the engine out and the pan off?

Thanks in advance, I know that a number of you have and can pull these engines in your sleep so I am hoping to avoid some pitfalls.

Peter

This is something I would have done so I dont know the procedures, but 1 thing I have heard is the pans rusting out so you might be in for a new pan. Good luck.

Remove the complete outdrive first, unbolt the lags from the engine mounts going into the stringers, disconnect fuel, electric and control cables, and water hoses; slide engine forward then up and out. If your boat is a 26', Be careful with the fiberglass deck gutter @ the turbo; you can cause damage here make sure you are clear. I can't remember if there are bolts from the rear transom shield back into the bell housing or not, it's been awhile.

First are you sure it's the pan gsk thats leaking? There's a lot of other oil leak points above the pan the can make it appear it's the pan gsk. I've done a few of these and never the same way twice. If ya pull the outdrive its recommended you replace the Lg. o-ring seals at the re- install. A couple times I've removed the bell housing bolts and lifted her almost straight up. This is a little tougher to line up @ re-install but I made some guide pins that make it a snap.
Where's the boat maybe i can help?
More to follow gotta go do kids stuff.
Mike

Thanks for the replies, keep them coming.
I am pretty sure it is the pan gasket.
When I got the boat I noticed the oil right at the juncture of the block and the pan. I also had a leaky oil pressure switch which i replaced. I thought that was the cause but I didn't really run the boat until this week.
I thought I had found all of the new issues until I popped the box and found fresh oil in the bilge. I wiped are down and it came back. Not gallons but enough to make a mess.
For some reason I thought the engine came out without pulling the outdrive but after lots of searching around it appears as if the outdrive has to come off first.
Boy I hate boats!

P

Did you try cleaning up the bilge and putting some daipers down to locate where the leak is. I had the same issue last year and it looked like it was coming from the pan but it was actualy coming from the front main seal.
the oils would run down the block and the edge of the pan. I had to clean it out thoroughly put the diapers down and drive around the bay until I found it.
unless your absolutely sure its the pan gasket I would keep looking.

If you can get to all the bolts on the bell housing, you can split it there and noy touch the outdrive. If not you only need to take the upper gear box off the drive to get to the 8 bolts in the clamp ring.

Try and tighten the pan bolts a 1/2 turn each before doing anything drastic.

Mike

Mike, Good advice 1/2 turn may save lots of hours!

Peter,

No big deal. Remove lags from engine mounts, Wiring harness, fuel lines, throttle cable, raw water pick up hose and top end of outdrive. Should take no more than a couple hours. Nice thing about having the engine out is you can clean her up and dial in your engine box. I have done this a few times so if you have anymore questions please feel free to ask.

Cheers, Zack

Peter,

One other thing. Just like Mike said. Remove upper gearhead from your outdrive and remove the 8 bolts. Prior to that, make sure the fork lift is in place and hooked up to the engine with chain and all the weight is off the engine. At this point, engine should slide up and out of the boat. Zack

Thanks for the help. I really do appreciate the input.
Is it six or eight bolts? I was looking at the schematic and it looks like six. Mine, of course, are all rusty.
How high do you have to lift the gear head to get it to clear the lower case?
My new swimstep may be in the way.
Why do you remove the lag bolts instead of the big nut that secures the motor mount to the motor? Isn't there a concern for the stringer and then re-alignment?
Which parts are guaranteed to be needed? The rings from the clamping ring?
What else?
First though, I am going to try, as Mike suggested, to tighten the pan bolts a little.

peter

Peter

There are 8 blots in the clamp ring. I took mine out for the first time when the boat was 25 years old and they came right out. Use a 6 point socket if the heads are a little rounded off. As far as the o-ring goes, I've never replaced it. I clean it up, lube it up and re-use it. Never had a problem yet.

Upper gear box needs to be lifted up about 2 inches to pull it off. There will be a few shims under the bearing. Just collect them and reinstall all that you take out. When you pull the gear box, bag the top of the drive to keep the dirt out. Don't forget to take a quart of oil out of the drive before you unbolt it.

If your bellows are a couple years old, this would be a great time to replace them as well. Also pull the S shaped water pickup hose off the outdrive and see how the end of the water pickup looks. I find the end starts to corrode off at the 3 or 4 year mark.

Mike

Bolts are already out
http://www.members.cox.net/noslack/seal.jpg

:eek: Hi I don't know if your done yet! but I also was shure i had a pan leak, got a haulf turn on all the pan bolts,cleaned the engine well and painted it.Fired her up again and after 15 minutes found the oil leak.Turned out to be an o-ring on the backside of the part bellow the oil cooler. But in shopping around pete the owner of cogswell marine in chula vista was the cheepeston the oil pan gasket.Also I figured if I had the pan off should replace the oil pump.But very expensive part.Cogswell also has a rebuild kit for I beleave $85.00 hope this helped.Capt.Dan Tag Team

If you're unfamiliar with it, make sure you dig out the electrical plug for the harness instead of undoing all of the electrical connections and don't ask why I would suggest that. Also, don't move the bottom nut on the motor mounts as it is the adjustment for motor / outdrive alignment. It's also a great time to evaluate the condition of the little aluminum elbow that the S shaped hose clamps on to and I second the boot maint suggestion.

If someone is offering help, I never turn it down, it's always quicker and more fun.

By the way Mike, that outdrive and bootstripe look real familiar - thanks again for schoolin me!

Further Thanks.
I still only count six bolts. I'm not sure but maybe there are six clamping bolts and two more for something else but I only see six on mine and I bought a used "clamping ring kit" on ebay which has the ring, two donuts, three plates and six bolts. I don't know if I'll need it but for fifty bucks I figured I could have it on hand.
I haven't checked the pan bolts yet, this weekend.
The boots are new as I had the outdrive off a few months ago.
Stupid boats!

P

Just went out and looked at my 280. 6 bolts is right, I don't know where I came up with 8.

Mike

Sometimes I love being wrong.
There is a cover on the back of the oil cooler.
I believe it is a relief check of some sort.
It is only made out of thin steel and it was kinda rusty.
That is where the oil was coming from.
Dripped perfectly on the juncture of the block and pan.
I bought a new cover and o-ring.
Unfortunately the bolts that held it on/in were in bad shape as well. So two hours of messing with it yesterday and I finally got the old cover off (in a few pieces) but still need the new bolts.
Anyhow, better than pulling the engine.
Also, I was changing the exhaust check valve. I bought replacement rivets from Volvo, I figured they were expensive ($3.09 each x 6) but I wasn't sure the size, material, etc so I would bite the bullet and buy "genuine Volvo Penta Parts."
What showed up? Three different sizes and two materials (aluminum and stainless) all for the same part number.
I bought a box of the right size and aluminum this morning from McMaster Carr for $7.79 (100 pcs).

Thanks again for the help.
It won't go to waste it will always be in the archives for next time.

Peter