Duoprop shaft seal(s)

Well damn. Pulled the boat out of the water yesterday, power washed the bottom, and pulled the props off to regrease and install new zinc. Found fishing line melted into the small shaft seal, even with using line cutters. But my dilemna is, I pulled out what looks like part of the seal all wrapped up in fishing line, but behind it looks like a perfectly good seal still in place. Is the seal protected with an outer plastic ring subseal or something that I pulled out? Drained the oil, and I don't think I see any water.

Parts diagrams aren't clear, but they do say seal 'kit', implying more then one part. Is pulling that seal easy enough with a hook puller and pressing in a new one with a correct size piece of PVC or something? Or should I take it in to Blackman's?

Last question/comment. I put a lot of time into primer and outdrive paint (also tabs) last fall. Used Alumaspray. Stuff sucks. Didn't deter growth worth a sheeeet. How did that Trinidad spray hold up on Nomad? Any recommended brands that work?

Part 38 is the seal. It looks like 2 seals to me.

If Phill ever comes off the water and checks the board, he'll walk ya through what needs to be done.

Mike

http://www.bocapix.com/data/512/4seal.jpg

I used Trinidad SR on the bottom which is great stuff. Just did the Riv with 2 coats plus a third on high wear areas.

On the Blackman outdrive I used Interlux Primocon as a primer and Interlux Trilux paint. It was pretty good at keeping the growth off but wore off quickly (one season) from the cleaning service.

Quote:

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Part 38 is the seal. It looks like 2 seals to me.

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I saw that and wondered the same.

Thanks for the brand on the outdrive paint Charlie.

Glen,
Don't try to pry the seal out!!!!!!
Give me a call. I have all the tools necessary to pull the housing and install the seals.
You will also need the two large O-rings.
Give me a call for more info.......
619 276-5478

It only takes a few minutes (half hour) to replace the seals
It will take longer to go to the boat to pick-up the tools....


Phil

Phil, I need to figure out what replacement seals to order. Do I understand correctly, the right way to do this is to take the lower shafts/gears out of the outdrive to replace the seals? Are the seals 2 parts, a seal and some outer ring? What o-rings?

I will call you, but thought it might be helpful for all to keep the information flowing in the thread.

Glen,
You need #38 and 2 # 29s
H&H will have them in stock.
Phil

Ok, I see what o-rings you are talking about now. In order to reseal the outer shaft bearing log. Nice to hear H&H might have them.

So when is a good time to inconvenience you and borrow some tools? Want to come over and demonstrate? I make Mike do that a couple times a year.. LOL

Glen,
H&H Marine will have them.
I have a very open working schedule :) until MAY. This week
I plan on going to the MBMC seminar on Friday night, Fishing the MBMC tournament on Saturday and Sunday 6 pm. Other than that, any night or afternoon. I would be glad to supervise or you can borrow the tools. You will also need new oil. How about a Halibut hole for rent on the tools. :D
Phil
Maybe there are others who would like to see how to change these seals?

Phil, thanks for all the info. Name the day that works for you. I'm in Mira Mesa. Lot of trouble and I hate making people go out of their way, so you call it please.

Oh, found my trim problem tonight. The plastic gear strip on the top of the steering helmet was broke. Hmmm... Got a spare and might just replace it, or pull the outdrive/motor and replace the whole steering helmet to tighten up some other things... dang boats... LOL

I'll get the seal and rings from H&H by Wednesday this week. What oil is best?

Depending on work schedule I'd love to bring the beer . I buy synthetic in 5 gallon pails from Pennzoil supplier off Scripps Poway Pkwy.

Sounds like we could have us an hour or two 'How to replace outdrive seals' training session after work this week, and a couple of beers to go with it. Now that it is daylight savings time, we have plenty of light after work. Shall we shoot for something this Thursday, right after work, 5:00PM?

What brand of outdrive oil?

I buy Mobil 1 at Kragen. You need 3 Quarts/liters.
Thursday is fine.
Phil

Ok, Thursday 4/14/05, 5:00PM, it is. Anyone wanting to stop by, I will PM you my address (In the Mira Mesa area) or you can call me on my cell (619.654.1161). Phil is going to bring tools and show me how to change the shaft seal on a duoprop.

I found all the parts I need in town, in stock, spread out over 3 different stores (lucky me.. lol).

Thanks Phil.

I'd love to sit in on the class, but there is no way I can make it this semester. We're hitting it hard at work, 10 hours a day 6 or 7 days a week for the whole month of April.

Next time the class comes up, I'll make the time to show up, and hopefully I won't be the host instructor like Glenn is this time.

Mike

Phil, others,

Need to ask what gear oil to get again. I just went to Kragen, they carry both a Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube 75-90W (were out), and the same thing in a 75-140W (with added logo of being for SUV & Light Trucks). The manual only says Service SE 10-30 or 10-40W. Manuals are often outdated, I understand. Should I ask Blackman's?

Picked up all the other parts needed today. Seals, o-rings, zinc, and new prop nut.

Glen,
I have always used 75-90.
I think I compared it to volvo gear oil.
I would call blackman or outdrive exchange?
I picked up the tools and props from the boat.
Phil

Glenn

Here is what I've been told about gear oil for the DP.

If you ran synthetic from day one, stay with it.
If you ran regular oil from day one, stay with that.

In the old days when our boats were built, 10W-30 or 15W-40 engine oil was the recommended oil for the drive.

The new school of thought is the clutch cones need a heavier oil and you should run a 80W-90 gear oil. I use Valvoline high performance SAE 80W-90 (not the synthetic) from kragen.

Volvo outdrive oil specs http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/outdrives.shtml

Here is everything from the DP section

AQ290-DP, AQ290A-DP Gear oil, API GL-5, SAE90 2.7 liters 1.95:1, 2.30:1

DP-A Gear oil, API GL-5, SAE 90 2.7 liters 1.95:1, 2.30:1

DP-A1 Gear oil, API GL-5, SAE 90 2.7 liters 1.78:1, 1.95:1, 2.30:1

DP-A2, DP-B, DP-B1, DP-C, DP-C1,DP-D Synthetic gear oil, API GL-5,
SAE 5W-90 2.7 liters 1.78:1, 1.95:1, 2.30:1

DP-D1, DP-E Synthetic gear oil, API GL-5, SAE 75W-90 2.7 liters 1.68:1
1.78:1, 1.95:1, 2.30:1

DP-G Synthetic gear oil, API GL-5, SAE 75-140 2.7 liters 1.68:1, 1.78:1, 1.95:1, 2.30:1

Ok, now I wonder what I just drained out of the outdrive? Bought the outdrive new last year, prefilled, from Volvo Penta. Doesn't look synthetic (synthetic being a blueish color, what I drained being more like smelly, heavy, non-synthetic dark green).

Valvoline synthetic is not blue, its a clear light green and smells.
From my experience with car transmissions its OK to go from reg to synthetic. In fact its usually recommended that you start with standard oil for the first oil change. I can't imagine not using synthetic and I change the oil four times a year. :D :D
Just my 2 cents
Phil

We do all the necessary repairs and pressure check before you refill with gear oil.

Thanks to Phil for all the help in changing the small prop shaft seals. It was really easy when you have all the right tools. We found a little more line tucked in with the seals, so good thing I found it now and was able to change them out before they leaked.

It took longer to pour the new oil in, then it did to pull the shafts out, replace the seals, put on new o-rings and put it back together.