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My billfisher 23 has a 200 hp volvo, I just came back from a trip to sanfelipe,
just before the trip I change the oil from regular to syntetic (MOBIL 1,)
Back in calif. I found oil in the engine room. I can't figure out were is the engine oil is cuming from. could it be brom a over spill.
does eny body have any idea about this situation?
thanks,
WERNER
I don't know about switching to synthetic oil but, did you check your oil pan for leaks?
Scott
Is the engine a 41?? How much oil. Maybe the oil filter is loose. Or, maybe some residue oil from the oil change. If the engine is a 41, that is a TIGHT fit!!
RT
RT is very interesting that you mention a 41,Quote:
Originally Posted by Moo Fish
this is my 1st diesel engine so please tellme what this means,
and the oil filter is not loose and there was no residue from the oil change,
I figure that there was about a quart of oil,
I will check scott's sugestion about the oil pan next sunday,
I plan to clean the bilge like new, and observe to find out if there is more oil because this really worry me.
thanks
The 41 is the 6 cylinder in line 200HP model; 185 HP @ outdrive shaft. It has a turbo and an aftercooler.
The earlier 6 cylinder 40s just had the turbo, 140-165HP. Most 23s came with this motor as did the early 26s.
I don't think you are supposed to run synthetic in Volvo diesel motors, I asked when I first bought my Blackman and they said just stick to standard 30 or 15/40 wt oil. I could be wrong however.
Check the crankcase breather on the rear port side of the engine.
When you get the bilge clean, put some of that white oil absorbent pad under the engine. When the oil drips it will spot the pad and not get sloshed around by any water in the bilge. Were you find the oil spots, look straight up and you'll fine your leak.
Mike
The engine is the 41 because i know it is the 200hp and is turbo charged and has a water-to-air intercooler. You are right, the fit is rather tight.
And, if you ever need a part for a 41, check with me first....RT
The early AQAD41A engines seem to have a problem puking oil out of the breather at the back of the engine. This is especially true if you overfill (or fill to the top of the dipstick) the engine with oil. Most people fill their 41A engines to about the halfway mark on the dipstick. I'm not sure if you have an 'A' engine or not.
Volvo made several models of the 41 series, A, B, D and P are the ones I'm aware of. The 'A' engines were the first generation. Most likely late 86 early 87. Volvo made some modifications to increase compression (reduce start up smoke) and called it the 'B' engine. Other modifications resulted in the 'D' and 'P' engines.
Check to see if your engine is overfilled with oil. There should be a name plate on the engine that tells what model it is.
Good luck on the new engine.
Bill
If the oil leak is not noticable when you look down from the deck take a mirror, I use an 8 X 10, and lay it on the floor under the engine in differant locations. Check the tiny whole under the aftercooler in the corner. I think it's purpose is to release the oil that comes out of the turbo and poors down the cooler (from inside). The synthetic may be passing throught the bearings in the turbo. When the cooler gets too much oil it retains heat longer and it (the oil) doesn't allow the cooler to cool the air.
If it's the breather their are a few ways to fix the problem, let me know and I can send you pictures of my repair.
If it is the breather, your vent filter will be real oily and there will be a nice pool of oil slightly above your starter. As you bob around that can spill over and cause a mess.
Other than that their are lots of places that oil can spill from.
Clean it real well, get your mirror and start looking.
Good luck,
Peter
I finally found the oil leak,
it is coming out of the oil cooler, right above tho oil filter,
corrosion i gess,
I have pictures but I do not know how to bring them in.
I really thanks all for the attention to this problem,
if some body know if this part can be repared or were to buy it
i would really appreciate the sugestions,
after cleaning the bilge I was ready to take off inthe boat for the weekend but but know...
There are 3 bolts that secure the oil cooler to the engine. I would first make sure they are tight. If they are and you still have a leak, it could be the 3 o-rings that are on the back of the cooler that press against the engine. I have heard of these breaking down or not on well. If they have never been changed, the synthetic oil could possibly leak through if they are OK but are hard and brittle.
You have ro remove the pipes coming in and going out. Take the 3 bolts off and you will see the 3 o-rings on the back. They probably will only cost a few dollars. I put them in with just white grease to hold them secure. When you push the bolts in they have to stay secure and slip into the grove.
If you decide to take the cooler apart and clean it thats another job but no big deal.
thanks for the recomendation hijole, but I can see from were the oil is coming out, I even took a picture of it with my digital but I dont know how to bring this into this thread,
any ways, the oil in coming from were the brass cup meets the main block of the oil cooler, I can see corrosion at the lower part were the brass meet the main body.
Werner
Werner,
That's why I love this site (thanks again Charlie). Can you tell us more about the problem so that we can all learn about how to prevent it. Many of us have the same engine or something close. For instance 1) Is the corrosion on the top of the cup or bottom? 2)Do you attribute the corrosion to saltwater (salt) forming on it? 3)What year is you engine? 4) What would you recommend to avoid this in the future?
I'm a rather poor retired Navy guy that needs to protect my investment.
Thanks again,
Scott
Here are the pictures of the part:
http://www.wertechconstruction.com/oil1.jpg
http://www.wertechconstruction.com/oil2.jpg
This picture was taken just as the engine was cranked, notice the oil starting to gush out at the bottom.
There is a large o-ring that stops the oil from coming out from the place that is shown in the pix. Obviously it's time to replace the large o-ring. Once removed the cooler takes 2 large o-rings, one one each side. FRom what I can see in the picture the oil leak starts just above the red arrow you typed in the pix. The brass plug is screwed into the piece that looks like a round cooler (radiator) inside. You can't see the cooler (radiator) until you push it out. The cooler has to be removed in order to replace the o-rings.
First the pipes have to be disconected.
Then the oil filter removed. You can see one of the 3 bolts just above the oil filter (I think it's a 13mm) that goes into the engine in your picture. Not the bolts that are going up. You can romove the bolts going up once you remove the entire assembly otherwise you will get oil all over.
Do you think you are going to give it a try?
It really is not that hard. The pieces are large so you don't have to worry about losing small pieces. I think there are 3 or 4 o-rings in the back, 2 large ones on the cooler, a fiber gasket to keep the water from leaking out and two other o-rings at each end where the springs are for the oil preassure. I also replace the o-rings at the end of the pipe going in and the one coming out.
I forgot to metion the obvious. I would first clean the area before you remove things. It's hard to tell from the pix because the area has blistered paint and oil stains.
The section that has the brass plug (cooler) is copper. If there is a zinc there, maybe it has corrosion and a small hole. On mine, the housing is aluminum.
Hopefully it's just the o-ring. If there is corrosion on the outside maybe it can be soddered. If it's inside you may get salt water in your oil but that can also be soddered at a radiator shop. I guess it's hard to tell if the thickness of the copper is corroded so if you need another cooler maybe the Wizzard has one laying around the yard in Fallbrook not far from Riverside. He may ask you to help pick the avocados.
Hijole;
thanks for the tips,
I did get everything disassembly,
I think I mest up the radiator,
the radiator housing has some corrotion in the lower part as you see in the picture, the o ring was pushed out by the oil pressure I gess.
please guive me more info about the Wizzard, a phone #?
I need to locate a radiator.
thank you,
Werner,
I made a mistake, it's not Wizzard it's Moo Fish with parts back yard. Look him up on the members list and send him a email. Sorry to hear about the cooler. Are you sure it can't be repaired at a radiator shop? They can also pressure test it.
Hijole;
thanks for the info and help,
I did get a used oil cooler from moo fish,
I will install it over the week end and see how it will work,
GOOD JOB!! Moo Fish!!
The installation is pretty basic. The things to watch out for is to make sure the o-rings on the back don't come out of the slots and that they are flush to the engine. The other is to make sure the fiber gasket in the back is on the correct side of the face plate. If you guess wrong it gets saltwater in the oil.
I guess the synthetic oil was not the problem.