Bearing replacement

Friday was suppose to be a afternoon cod trip followed by an evening of hooping.

200 yards from the ramp the water pump impeller I installed 2 weeks ago burnt up. I went with a volvo impeller and it had a tough time getting a prime in the 4 trips since install.

Lucky for me Phil was coming in from a cod trip and pulled me back over to the ramp. Thanks Phil

I thought I would run home and put the old impeller back in and make my hoopnetting commitment. After the install I give the outdrive the once over and find one of the bolts between the steering fork and helmet was missing.

Being a 4 day weekend I new I couldn't get that part before monday, so I went ahead with a little more maintenace. Pulled the outdrive to check the u-joints and bellows. Found one of the u-joints a little stiff, so I added that to the monday shopping list.

When I reached in to shake the stub shaft of the engine, I see those bearings are shot. Pulled the engine this morning and remover the bell housing to gain access to the stub shaft. Two more bearings on the shopping list.

I was able to mic the bearings and cross them over to something other than a Volvo number so I can pick them up locally for 1/3 the price.

If all goes well I'll slap the engine back in after lunch on monday.

Just another day in owning a 25 year old boat.

Mike

http://www.bocaboard.com/data/noslack/IM001415.JPG

http://www.bocaboard.com/data/noslack/IM001416.JPG

Probably with a wrench on one hand and a turkey keg in the other??!!

You make it sound so easy and quick!

It is easy. With all the practice runs on everyone else's boat, it was a snap. 11:50am monday and it's back in.

Mike

Mine went out last year and before I knew it, the whole bell housing got reamed out so I had to replace it too (OUCH)!

After you retire from your current job Mike you're going to have to open up a Volvo Outdrive Service Shop and really make a killing!

If anyone is thinking about changing out the bearings in the stub shaft, you can pick up the parts head of time and have the engine out and back in in 4 hours.

I didn't want to pay Volvo prices so I pulled one day, measured the bearings and seal and bought the stuff the next morning at Applied Technologies( old King Bearing).

bearing numbers 6007 and 6206
seal number CR13966
U-joints NAPA 210-1306 or GMB 215-1306 for heavy duty


Mike

You're making it look to easy Mike.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NoSlack

If anyone is thinking about changing out the bearings in the stub shaft, you can pick up the parts head of time and have the engine out and back in in 4 hours.

I didn't want to pay Volvo prices so I pulled one day, measured the bearings and seal and bought the stuff the next morning at Applied Technologies( old King Bearing).

bearing numbers 6007 and 6206
seal number CR13966
U-joints NAPA 210-1306


Mike

---

Is the 6007 a polit bearing in the crankshaft. My 41 has a bushing. It uses the 6206 bearing and C-clip to hold it. I removed mine from the outside without removing the motor. The 290 has nylon bushing that holds in the bearing that got distroyed also. It cost more than the bearing. I got mine bearing from volvo for about $20. They have replaced the 6206 with 6206 2RS. The 2RS has 2 Rubber Seals (sealed bearing). BTW 6206 is also used on the rear wheel of a VW. Its a very common bearing that you can get at most autoparts.

Phil

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NoSlack

you can pick up the parts head of time and have the engine out and back in in 4 hours.

---

Come on, Mike, pick up the pace! Those mechanics at the 24 hrs of Le Monde can change an entire rear end in 12 minutes and it's going to take a full 4 hrs to do a simple pull and replace? Only kidding, of course; I've spent a large portion of my life turning wrenches and I'd measure the time it'd take me in days, not hours.

Phil

Looking from the outside in, you have the grease seal, a large spap ringthat keeps the grease seal from going to far in, 1/2" of space, second large snap ring that keeps the 6206 bearing in place in the tunnel, then the 6206 bearing. The 6206 bearing is pressed on the shaft to a shoulder on the shaft then held in position with a small snap ring on the shaft. The original bearings were open ball bearings and I went with the rubber sealed bearing for a little more protection.

Once you have that part of the job done you need to work from the inside and press the 6007 bearing on the shaft, place a large snap ring in the tunnel then push in the second seal. The 6007 bearing in thinner version on a 6207.
If your inside bearing is loose on the shaft I could see pulling the shaft out the back end by hand.

Take a look at this link for the 290 breakdown. Calls for the same part # as the 280.
http://volvopentaparts.stemtostern.c...y.asp?ID=80222

Mike

http://www.bocaboard.com/data/noslack/seal.jpg