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Thread: I'm getting a new turbo, more power?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    2,067

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    From 1995 to August of last year. And that was the second repower. The original Volvo package went from November 1987 until Spring 1995 with 4480 hours. A cracked oil pick up tube caused the motor to oil starve the upper end which led to the first repower.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Professor View Post
    Hey Dirty E!

    That engine on the Patron had exactly the hours that were on the tach. Period………That engine ran at idle after every “hot” stop almost without exception and had more oil changes that any diesel engine I own. Not as many as Mikes 50 hour changes but at the 100 hour number. Delo all the time. That hour number includes my personal F350 and a fleet of company Cummins powered trucks, trolling at 5.9 by the way does not constitute a hot stop.


    As for your American contribution, I’m glad as an American your behind us, but Volvo Penta is a Swedish company. As a person of Swedish extraction hurrah, hurrah. Mike PM sent!
    Uh professor, we are talking about the old Mac Attack, my boat, are you thinking we were talking about your boat? Hey Mike i dont think I need that info I was just curious if you ever questioned the hours, it really doesn't matter now, I'm just learning everyday what it takes to be a boat owner. No bad feelings its a used boat and only time and money from here on out. Erik

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    255

    Default re turbo probs

    Hey Dirty E, sorry to hear of your turbo problems.

    The same thing happen to mine a while ago. I think I got lucky and caught it right as rust was just beginning to touch the fins. A little WD or Aero Kroil and a careful cleaning along with replacement of the elbow salvaged mine.

    I don't know if the exhaust elbow on the 41 is the same as on my 40 but if it is I would suspect that the elbow leaked raw water from where the inner stainless elbow is flared and "fastened" to the turbo or upstream end of the elbow. Those cast iron elbows generate a certain amount of rust over time and eventually the flakes of rust will start to block the flow of the raw water being pumped into the space between that inner stainless elbow and the cast iron one. If the flaired end of the inner stainless elbow does not seal with the cast iron end of the outer elbow the raw water can leak from between the two, exposing the exhaust side of the turbo to raw water (sea water). I suspect that as the rust flakes build up and the pressure increases in that area between the two, any leakage will be increased. I looked at the new Volvo elbow that I bought and decided to test the seal on that end and sure enough it leaked. I wound up asking a friend to braze that seam for me and I haven't had any trouble with it since. If your engine ever starts to run warmer than usual I would pull that thing and use a piece of coat hanger to work those rust flake out (great technique, courtesy of Mike). You don't want to know what I went through before I learned that one.

    Hope the new turbo get you going.
    Brian on Old Blue, out

  4. #14

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    Hey E,
    Going to give my opinion on the fuel pump tweak you asked about. IMO, the 20-30 HP isn't worth the time/effort/$$ to make the fuel pump adjustment and potential engine stress. Honestly, how much faster do we need our Blackman's to go? Full disclosure: I'm happy to get to an efficient speed and cruise. If you find yourself racing home to beat pitch black, then the extra 1/2 to 1 nmph might be worth it.

  5. #15

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    Well I performed the tweaks from a injection shop, all it took was a torx bit and end Wrench, I gave the top screw(forget the name of it) located right on top of the injection pump a full turn(i may have this backwards I would have to look again) and then there is a low end screw on the back of the pump and it needed a quarter turn. It does pop up alot better when the turbo kicks in, and with a full load WOT 3900 rpm I hit 26-27 mph, cruise 3100 20-21 mph,flo meter was reading 7 gph. My load was 5 large men 3 of them pushing #300 ( i need a smaller crew) full bait tank. Erik

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Fullerton
    Posts
    27

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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtyE View Post
    Well I performed the tweaks from a injection shop, all it took was a torx bit and end Wrench, I gave the top screw(forget the name of it) located right on top of the injection pump a full turn(i may have this backwards I would have to look again) and then there is a low end screw on the back of the pump and it needed a quarter turn. It does pop up alot better when the turbo kicks in, and with a full load WOT 3900 rpm I hit 26-27 mph, cruise 3100 20-21 mph,flo meter was reading 7 gph. My load was 5 large men 3 of them pushing #300 ( i need a smaller crew) full bait tank. Erik
    I read this old thread and been through this before on my 31A. If there was rust on the exhaust side, it had nothing to do with hot shut downs. A hot shut down starves the turbo bearings of oil under pressure while it's still spinning at a high speed. This damage to the bearings can easily be repaired.

    If there was rust on the exhaust side it was either due to water dripping on the joint between the turbo and the exhaust elbow (i.e. my Blackman 20 with an engine box), or water backup due to a rusty corroded exhaust elbow. When the turbo vanes on the exhaust side chew into rust build-up on the housing, it's not repairable. If you tried to clean up the rust on the turbo housing, the clearance between the turbo vanes only increases and you cannot replace the metal on the housing. Thus loss of boost and loss of power. The neglect is in not replacing the exhaust elbow on regular basis. They should be inspected every two years, replaced at a max of five years.

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