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Thread: Mounting of radar antennas

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  1. #1

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    Alan and Russ,

    Thanks for the feedback. Hope to have the radar arch finished this weekend and the radar operating smoothly too.
    Tenacious

  2. #2

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    Glad Russ recommended that I just convert my existing arch to fold down. This will save me lots of $$ in the long run as I will be able to pull into the gas stations near my house instead of running all the way to SOCAL truck stop or paying the big $$ on the water. It will also allow me to get the antenna up on the arch to see 360 degrees (maybe avoid getting run over by cargo ships in the fog) and give me better range. The job is almost complete. It was rather difficult cutting the stainless 16 guage sheets but, they are done. Now I just need to drill the holes in the boat and install the arch with 5/8' bolts. Oh ya, then I have to obtain the 16" radar mount on the arch so that the antenna will see over by bimini and get away from my noggin! Will also need to cut the antenna wires to run them through the arch then re-splice them. It's all just time and/or money, right?
    Tenacious

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    2,067

    Default Hope I'm not too Late........

    Let me just remind you Marc had a full head of hair and Russ was the lead scientist at the Jet Propulsion Laboratory at Pasadena responsible for the first lunar landing BEFORE they installed their unit on the arch. It didn't happen overnight but you can see the results.

  4. #4

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    Jeff

    Do I need to comment on the parts of your body that have shriveled up and fallen off because of the location of your Radar. I may be brain dead (can"t argue with that) but I still have my completly useless balls.

    Russ

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    2,067

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuba View Post
    Jeff

    Do I need to comment on the parts of your body that have shriveled up and fallen off because of the location of your Radar. I may be brain dead (can"t argue with that) but I still have my completly useless balls.

    Russ
    Kids that's another reason you should always read the manual before turning the unit on; it was years before I discovered I could block out transmission from the rear of the radome and then my crew wouldn't have given me the "Captain Itchy Balls" nickname. The positive side is now we don't have to waste precious seconds during intimate times by having to turn on the light and try to find something to slip a condom on!

  6. #6

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    Lessons learned from doing this job. If you are going to fabricate stainless side plated to go between the arch/starboard and the flybridge, use 1/2" bolts. I drilled 5/8" holes in the flybridge and purchased the bolts before I attempted to drill 5/8" holes in the stainless sideplates and radar arch. I could not find anywhere that sold anything bigger than 1/2" cobalt drill bits. Ended up drilling 1/2" and then using a grinder bit to make the holes big enough to accept the 5/8" bolt. Took forever. Of course I don't have a metal shop either. Not sure you gain anything by going to 5/8" vice 1/2" bolts.
    Tenacious

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Long Beach
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    Hey Scott,

    Wish I would had seen this sooner. I use the Irwin Cobalt Unibits to drill out stainless at work all the time. The bits dont like it too much, but I've used them on material up to 1/4" thick. Any hardware store should have them. Check em out here:

    http://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bit...alt-step-drill

    They wont chatter or hang up and twist the drill right out of your hands like a twist drill can do. Use lots of lube and watch the heat of the bit and your piece. Stainless will work harden at a certain temp so keeping it and the bit cool are key. They wont last forever, but work well and stay centered. They work really good on fiberglass too, clean holes, no splinters.

    See ya, J

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