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Thread: Yanking Engine and Pan Gasket?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Whittier
    Posts
    66

    Default Yanking Engine and Pan Gasket?

    Well, after two years of working on her I finally took the "new boat" out for a test run.
    I had a list of 70 items to repair, modify and or complete. I now have an additional six or seven, one of which is to fix what appears to be a leaking pan gasket. AD41B.
    So I have two or three questions that I was hoping to get a little help with.
    1. How do you pull the engine?
    a. Do you unbolt the mounts from the block or do you take off the nuts from the mounts and lift?
    b. All of the hoses, wires, etc are relatively easy to figure out but what is holding the engine to the transom shield?
    c. When you have it all loose does it just pull forward and then up? What needs to be aligned when you are putting it back?

    2. The pan gasket from Volvo is $105.00! Is this the only source or was there a Chevy gasket that fits the same pan?
    3. Finally, any tips on what else to look for and or plan on replacing once I have the engine out and the pan off?

    Thanks in advance, I know that a number of you have and can pull these engines in your sleep so I am hoping to avoid some pitfalls.

    Peter

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Oceanside
    Posts
    123

    Default

    This is something I would have done so I dont know the procedures, but 1 thing I have heard is the pans rusting out so you might be in for a new pan. Good luck.
    Eric 26 Billfisher "REEL NASTY"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    2,067

    Default

    Remove the complete outdrive first, unbolt the lags from the engine mounts going into the stringers, disconnect fuel, electric and control cables, and water hoses; slide engine forward then up and out. If your boat is a 26', Be careful with the fiberglass deck gutter @ the turbo; you can cause damage here make sure you are clear. I can't remember if there are bolts from the rear transom shield back into the bell housing or not, it's been awhile.
    Last edited by DOGHOUSE26; 10-20-2010 at 07:54 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Vista,Ca
    Posts
    194

    Smile

    First are you sure it's the pan gsk thats leaking? There's a lot of other oil leak points above the pan the can make it appear it's the pan gsk. I've done a few of these and never the same way twice. If ya pull the outdrive its recommended you replace the Lg. o-ring seals at the re- install. A couple times I've removed the bell housing bolts and lifted her almost straight up. This is a little tougher to line up @ re-install but I made some guide pins that make it a snap.
    Where's the boat maybe i can help?
    More to follow gotta go do kids stuff.
    Mike
    Royal Hook

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Whittier
    Posts
    66

    Default Pretty Sure

    Thanks for the replies, keep them coming.
    I am pretty sure it is the pan gasket.
    When I got the boat I noticed the oil right at the juncture of the block and the pan. I also had a leaky oil pressure switch which i replaced. I thought that was the cause but I didn't really run the boat until this week.
    I thought I had found all of the new issues until I popped the box and found fresh oil in the bilge. I wiped are down and it came back. Not gallons but enough to make a mess.
    For some reason I thought the engine came out without pulling the outdrive but after lots of searching around it appears as if the outdrive has to come off first.
    Boy I hate boats!

    P

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Oceanside
    Posts
    123

    Default

    Did you try cleaning up the bilge and putting some daipers down to locate where the leak is. I had the same issue last year and it looked like it was coming from the pan but it was actualy coming from the front main seal.
    the oils would run down the block and the edge of the pan. I had to clean it out thoroughly put the diapers down and drive around the bay until I found it.
    unless your absolutely sure its the pan gasket I would keep looking.
    Eric 26 Billfisher "REEL NASTY"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Spring Valley
    Posts
    2,692

    Default

    If you can get to all the bolts on the bell housing, you can split it there and noy touch the outdrive. If not you only need to take the upper gear box off the drive to get to the 8 bolts in the clamp ring.

    Try and tighten the pan bolts a 1/2 turn each before doing anything drastic.

    Mike
    NoSlack-------------------------------------------<'(((>{

  8. #8

    Default oil

    Mike, Good advice 1/2 turn may save lots of hours!

  9. #9

    Default

    Peter,

    No big deal. Remove lags from engine mounts, Wiring harness, fuel lines, throttle cable, raw water pick up hose and top end of outdrive. Should take no more than a couple hours. Nice thing about having the engine out is you can clean her up and dial in your engine box. I have done this a few times so if you have anymore questions please feel free to ask.

    Cheers, Zack

  10. #10

    Default

    Peter,

    One other thing. Just like Mike said. Remove upper gearhead from your outdrive and remove the 8 bolts. Prior to that, make sure the fork lift is in place and hooked up to the engine with chain and all the weight is off the engine. At this point, engine should slide up and out of the boat. Zack

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