Bearing replacement

[NoSlack]

Friday was suppose to be a afternoon cod trip followed by an evening of hooping.

200 yards from the ramp the water pump impeller I installed 2 weeks ago burnt up. I went with a volvo impeller and it had a tough time getting a prime in the 4 trips since install.

Lucky for me Phil was coming in from a cod trip and pulled me back over to the ramp. Thanks Phil

I thought I would run home and put the old impeller back in and make my hoopnetting commitment. After the install I give the outdrive the once over and find one of the bolts between the steering fork and helmet was missing.

Being a 4 day weekend I new I couldn't get that part before monday, so I went ahead with a little more maintenace. Pulled the outdrive to check the u-joints and bellows. Found one of the u-joints a little stiff, so I added that to the monday shopping list.

When I reached in to shake the stub shaft of the engine, I see those bearings are shot. Pulled the engine this morning and remover the bell housing to gain access to the stub shaft. Two more bearings on the shopping list.

I was able to mic the bearings and cross them over to something other than a Volvo number so I can pick them up locally for 1/3 the price.

If all goes well I'll slap the engine back in after lunch on monday.

Just another day in owning a 25 year old boat.

Mike

[Moo Fish]

Probably with a wrench on one hand and a turkey keg in the other??!!

[yellowfin1]

You make it sound so easy and quick!

[NoSlack]

It is easy. With all the practice runs on everyone else's boat, it was a snap. 11:50am monday and it's back in.

Mike

[DOGHOUSE26]

Mine went out last year and before I knew it, the whole bell housing got reamed out so I had to replace it too (OUCH)!

After you retire from your current job Mike you're going to have to open up a Volvo Outdrive Service Shop and really make a killing!

[NoSlack]

If anyone is thinking about changing out the bearings in the stub shaft, you can pick up the parts head of time and have the engine out and back in in 4 hours.

I didn't want to pay Volvo prices so I pulled one day, measured the bearings and seal and bought the stuff the next morning at Applied Technologies( old King Bearing).

bearing numbers 6007 and 6206
seal number CR13966
U-joints NAPA 210-1306 or GMB 215-1306 for heavy duty


Mike

[Old Blue]

You're making it look to easy Mike.

[Knot Now]

If anyone is thinking about changing out the bearings in the stub shaft, you can pick up the parts head of time and have the engine out and back in in 4 hours.

I didn't want to pay Volvo prices so I pulled one day, measured the bearings and seal and bought the stuff the next morning at Applied Technologies( old King Bearing).

bearing numbers 6007 and 6206
seal number CR13966
U-joints NAPA 210-1306


Mike

Is the 6007 a polit bearing in the crankshaft. My 41 has a bushing. It uses the 6206 bearing and C-clip to hold it. I removed mine from the outside without removing the motor. The 290 has nylon bushing that holds in the bearing that got distroyed also. It cost more than the bearing. I got mine bearing from volvo for about $20. They have replaced the 6206 with 6206 2RS. The 2RS has 2 Rubber Seals (sealed bearing). BTW 6206 is also used on the rear wheel of a VW. Its a very common bearing that you can get at most autoparts.

Phil

[iclypso]

you can pick up the parts head of time and have the engine out and back in in 4 hours.

Come on, Mike, pick up the pace! Those mechanics at the 24 hrs of Le Monde can change an entire rear end in 12 minutes and it's going to take a full 4 hrs to do a simple pull and replace? Only kidding, of course; I've spent a large portion of my life turning wrenches and I'd measure the time it'd take me in days, not hours.

[NoSlack]

Phil

Looking from the outside in, you have the grease seal, a large spap ringthat keeps the grease seal from going to far in, 1/2" of space, second large snap ring that keeps the 6206 bearing in place in the tunnel, then the 6206 bearing. The 6206 bearing is pressed on the shaft to a shoulder on the shaft then held in position with a small snap ring on the shaft. The original bearings were open ball bearings and I went with the rubber sealed bearing for a little more protection.

Once you have that part of the job done you need to work from the inside and press the 6007 bearing on the shaft, place a large snap ring in the tunnel then push in the second seal. The 6007 bearing in thinner version on a 6207.
If your inside bearing is loose on the shaft I could see pulling the shaft out the back end by hand.

Take a look at this link for the 290 breakdown. Calls for the same part # as the 280.
http://volvopentaparts.stemtostern.c...y.asp?ID=80222

Mike